If it's an interior and you want to make a somewhat correct exposure with a 60w bulb, then you would need something like f2.8, shutterspeed 25, ISO 600. So to set a 1/25th of a second shutter speed, just enter 25 in that parameter.
EV means exposure value, determined by the combination of ISO, shutter speed, aperture (fstop). It's just a guide that gives you a "preview" of what you intend to expose for in terms of the lighting in your scene (
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_v ... ure_values). You can use it for example to know instantly that your EV value may not be appropriate for the type of scene you are trying to render. For example if you know you will be rendering a bright daylight scene, your camera settings should result in an EV of about 15 (which is also the default settings of the Maxwell camera). If however you are rendering an interior lit by normal bulbs, then 15 is way too low of an exposure (the higher the EV, the less light will reach the "sensor") and you will have to change ISO,SS,fstop in order to have an EV of about 5-7. It's not an exact scale, just use it as a starting guide and change it depending on your wanted look. Granted you can preview your scene using FIRE so setting an initial EV is not really that important.
When you find the exposure that you like, you can then also check the box "Lock exposure" which will lock the EV value, so that if you then raise the fstop for example to have more depth of field, the shutter speed will automatically slow down, to compensate and keep the exposure the same.
Regarding crazy emitter values, this is sometimes done when you are using both physical sky + sun and regular emitters. The "necessity" stems from the fact that some optimisations in Maxwell work best if all emitters in the scene have more or less the same strength. But since the sun is so much stronger than emitters, this optimization works less well. So it is believed that by raising the initial emitter strength to crazy values (to approach the strength of the sun), then these optimizations can again work at their most efficient. But I'm not entirely sure how much this helps in reality. Some tests would be useful. So I don't use crazy emitter values and prefer to keep things based on reality. The thing to remember is that when you mix light sources (emitters + IBL, or emitters + Phy Sky), AND you are rendering an interior, then that's going to be the most difficult to render for Maxwell. You will find that in these cases Maxwell does prioritize the emitters and using Multi light you can turn on/off the Sun/Physical Sky, and you will see that the emitters by themselves are usually a lot cleaner then if you solo the Sun/Phy Sky sliders and look at their noise level. So it's recommended in this case to use Multilight and lower the influence of the Sun and/or Phy Sky, thus less noise from their contribution is visible in the render. More details here:
http://support.nextlimit.com/display/tu ... or+renders
In the first example on that page though, since window emitters are used to mimic very strong Phy Sky lighting, they are set to a high value. In this case, if I also had any regular lamps etc. in the scene, I would set their initial strength to be the same as the window emitters to keep initial strengths as equal as possible (thus giving the optimizations the best chance the work). Then using Multilight I would lower the strength of these lamps to realistic values (and leaving the window emitters strength alone).
Btw, I'll move this thread to the main Maxwell forum, this is the Bug report forum.....
Maxwellzone.com - tutorials, training and other goodies related to Maxwell Render
Youtube Maxwell channel
- By hwolfejr
- By choo-chee