Please post here anything else (not relating to Maxwell technical matters)
By yanada
#253931
http://www.lightcrafts.com/

Instantly create High Dynamic Range images, without the need to take multiple exposures. All operations are performed in a 16-bit dynamic range for maximum editing flexibility.

+more much more feat....
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By Hervé
#253948
that looks pretty cool.... indeed I always thought why take multiple exposures when my raw 16 bits has all I need..

Thanks for the link.. :wink:
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By Mihai
#253969
But I think even a raw image has a limited range of fstops it can capture, you won't get back detail from blown highlights for example. You still need to take multiple exposures.
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By rivoli
#253972
as mihai says, there's no way you can get the wide range of a good hdr with a single exposure, 16 bit or not.
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By Hervé
#254026
too bad.... :(
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By mverta
#254030
Yes, this is just using standard color correction tricks to improve the look of LDR images, it's not making them "hdr," nor is it "pulling" information out of an hdr image, it's simulating an "hdr-ish" tonal range by using filters - filters whose auto-selection regions, by the way, are very artifact-y and hard-edged like JPEG noise.

_Mike
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By Hervé
#254031
yes but taking raw NEF photos with the Nikon d200, and opening them in Capture NX, I can re-expose a photo pretty well.. but I reckon, it is better to take slightly over exposed photos... than under-exposed ones...

all good then..

Is there any tool that does NICE tone mapping photos... all I've seen for now is "so so"... :cry:
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By Mihai
#254036
It depends what's most important to you in the photo. If you think you might want more shadow details, take it a bit overexposed, and underexposed if you want more room for adjusting the highlights. If your camera has a histogram function, it's the best place to look at which areas will most probably be lost, and adjustment later is very limited.
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By Hervé
#254069
Mihai wrote:It depends what's most important to you in the photo. If you think you might want more shadow details, take it a bit overexposed, and underexposed if you want more room for adjusting the highlights. If your camera has a histogram function, it's the best place to look at which areas will most probably be lost, and adjustment later is very limited.
hey Thanks Mihai... great advice .. 8)

btw Yanada, I am very curious about that new app "Fluid color"

... will keep an eye on it.. Thanks :wink:

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