the same rules apply here. Correct me if i'm wrong but noise is the inevitable result of not enough information per square 'whatever'.
The solution in the real world is to cheat. No good interior shot is completely free of some fakery, whether it's a reflector hidden from the camera or a big strobe... its there. You need to do the same thing with Maxwell, it's not the renderer's fault, any more then it is the film's fault. Equalize the dynamic range and noise will go away (more)
General rule of thumb, outside only 2 stops brighter then inside. Thus, DON'T USE THE SUN. It's THOUSANDS of times brighter then a 400W bulb or emitter. The don't do it in films for the same reason. More control, more limited dynamic range 'friendly'.
Pump a lot of light into your scene. More then you will need. You will then be able to 'stop down' your aperture and get better depth of field.
Put the emitter planes pretty close to the window about 4 feet large enough to not go out of sight from the inside... about 2x the size of the window. This will produce the 'light being thrown in from every direction' feel, like a real window does. You can also map a simple color map to it.. very subtle to simulate the blue on top, warm on bottom nature of window light.
Use interior window shaped planes positioned off camera in the same direction as a window would point. Use other 'theoretical' windows to light your scene, you can literally move the 'wiindow' around behind the camera to get the right look, pre-render.
Point a warm reflector from the ceiling, aim at dark shadow areas. The tone of the room can be controlled with these lights to fill shadows with cool or warm light. warm light will give the feeling of a cool overcast day outside, and cool will provide the bright summer sun feel. If you are getting uneven lighting, you can make larger slighting curved (convex) shapes which will simulate light bouncing of the ceiling/wall corner. Wall color can be added to this light to help sell the 'wall is actually behind the camera' thang.
I'd also recommend setting this up in something quicker to render... realtime even, like fprime.
I don't know offhand (since I've not tried it) is if maxwell has negative lights. In Lightwave you input a negative value for brightness, the lights then suck light. Which is very usefull for pulling down hot areas just a bit, or creating 'unraytraced' shadows.


- By Mark Bell
- By Edward Leibnitz