Raja
Thanks for reminding me about Google Earth - I spent all evening retracing my steps.
When I think back how so much was off limits, this satellite stuff must have alot of people worried.
I think the Srinager - Leh road was the only way in in 84. The Manali road was being made or may have just been completed for army engineers only. Anything north of Leh was certianly forbidden.
In 84 Kashmir was still at peace - previously I spent some time in Baramula and Sopore but they are not places I could safely visit again. I had previously spent a winter west of Srinager learning to ski at a ski school associated with the Indian Army Mountain Warfare school there. I have never been so fit or had so much to drink at the same time - the bottles of rum had labels on them " Not fit for Human Consumption" - they were meant for the pack mules !! but of course we drank them. Leh was a small little town and India had 600m people

- now its 1billion so I can image its crowded in Leh now

.
Jonathan