[mtripoli]

This may be the wrong place to post this... I'm bored so I loaded up some leds to render. I'm happy with the emission pattern (comparing it to actual photographs of leds it looks dead on). However, after a couple of hours - 2 hrs, 18 minutes, SL 17.58 (but who's counting) the black dots in the plastic don't seem to be near clearing up. Would they if I ran this overnight? I know things are much better than previous versions, but it still looks like I couldn't ever render "live" leds...


Thanks,

Mike T.

EDIT: While I'm at it asking questions, anyone know how to get the resolution up in an animation? GIF limits to 256 colors and looks like crap (see). I'm using Adobe Fireworks CS5...

[JDHill]

It all depends; the noise should get better with more SL, but if it's due to a bad geometry strategy, it may very well get worse. It would be impossible to guess without seeing the actual geometry.

[Eric Lagman]

Mike,

There was a big disussion about this back in 2006. A lot of the helpful images dont have links anymore, but there may be something to glean from it. http://www.maxwellrender.com/forum/view ... d&start=45

I had a pretty good result using the following simple setup in the attached zip file at the bottom of this post. Years ago I tried various setups as you can see in the test image, and I think the one in the attached file is the one closest to the camera. You may need to play with the led emitter brightness with multilight. I found I had to set it very low. I remember the material used was key also. A straight up clear dielectric did not do the job. It was a combination of clear with a little diffuse mixed in if I remember.

[mtripoli]

I tried to do a Pack n' Go but no go... I posted the single part:http://www.scarydesign.com/leds/5mm_led.sldprt. The materials stay attached? The background was just a plane with a 100% diffuse white.

@Eric: Thanks for the example. I don't think mine is much different other than I added the leads and an "actual" cup with "led chip". The leads are drawn freehand but the cup and chip are taken from actual manufacturers numbers. At one point I had the bond point and wire in there. When it was "focused on a wall" you could see the shadow and everything like in "real life" (whatever that is)...

Mike T.

[Eric Lagman]

I seem to remember you cant really model it like a real led or the calculations become too intense. Looks like you put metal material inside from your images? I think you want to avoid bouncing the light off a metal surface inside the clear diode because that will be caustics inside glass which will never escape or clear. I would stick with just an emitter inside a hollowed out area of the led diode like in the file I sent. Play with different shapes of the hollowed area to get a different spread.

[mtripoli]

I just went back and looked at that thread... I contributed a bunch of stuff in it...lol. So, 5 years later and I'm still bored and playing with this... I hadn't even remembered that Maxwell was that old!

[Eric Lagman]

Yeah I cant believe its been that long ago.....Time flies.

[JDHill]

Thanks, I got the file, and I see a couple of things. First, you probably don't want to be using color multilight unless you are just testing. Second, you might try enlarging the inner cavity such that there is no plastic between the reflector and the emitter. Other than that, I'd check through the thread that Eric mentioned.