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By Mattia Sullini
#221500
I love this community and most of all the fact that pros are the most prompt
By Maya69
#221502
I am agree with mike

For texture if you have a time paint your wall this the best way ......
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By mverta
#221515
acquiesse wrote:can we put these hints into a sticky/tutorial? :D
I have actually (finally) begun recording segments for a tut on Maxwell materials, which covers this and many other topics... coming soon!


Painting just means in Photoshop... altering photos used as textures with other photos, for example. Like taking a photo of a clean wall, and cloning dirt and scratches from another surface on top of it, to customize its look.


_Mike
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By Tea_Bag
#221517
Thanks For clearing that up Mike! Never really used Photoshop tooo expensive due to being a student, which Photoshop version is the best for general use? What bout Gimp is that any good?

Nice one Mike regarding the tutorials on maxwell materials! Cant wait!
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By x_site
#221532
Luis can i just add [or repeat - could not read the all thing] that you need something reflecting on that glass... just like in the real world
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By SunlightRocker
#221538
mverta wrote:I have actually (finally) begun recording segments for a tut on Maxwell materials, which covers this and many other topics... coming soon!
_Mike
Im really looking forward to that, Mike.
By iandavis
#221668
My apologies ahead of time if I duplicate advice given by others, especially mike (who is renowned for star trek)...errr... or star something. hehe.. sorry mike.

1. scale. Ensure everything is correctly scaled. The curb looks like it's over a foot high.

2. Materials. All materials should look like what they are supposed to be. Again, the curb, it looks like grey plastic. Remember the three main facets of a texture, color, roughness and bump. If you get at least these aspects it will help. You also need to use real-world references, for example find a photograph of a street in the rough area of the world where this building is supposed to be located in, and try to replicate what you see. Note that smoothing looks to be off. Every little oversight like that is a small CG signpost. "look at me, I'm artificial"

3. The George Lucas effect. Nothing in the real world is perfect. Without variation in size, shape and texture it screams 'artificiality'. Again, the curb jumps out. it's straight as a razor. They are NEVER like that, even when freshly poured. There would be natural curves and dips, not to mention a rain gutter, etc. etc. When you tackle a wide large scale image like this you need to be prepared to create LOADS of detail either via geometry or texture (usually a combination of both)

It looks to me that your modelling skills are great, but I suggest you start smaller. This is an enormous undertaking and unless there is a client at the other end of this image I suggest starting with a modest still life. Cutting your teeth on hyperrealism on a scene of this magnitude is really daunting. Personally I started with spheres and cubes then moved to things like TEAPOTS... then eventually to cars and shavers... :)

Seriously, it sounds to me like you don't grasp the enormity of your task. This is no easy fix, like what colors do I use to make it look like Mike's work. Mike's work looks the way it does because he spends a lot of time and effort on the details. That time and effort is non-negotiable. Without it your images simply look... well.. CG. Reality is quite messy and random. Generating messy and random on purpose is quite the task. I can count the number of images on my fingers which passed my test, which is, the complete lack of tell-tale CG signposts. Those images are produced by people who have sunk THOUSANDS of hours into the craft. There is no easy path in CG... it's just plain nasty, but sooo worth it when you finally start producing images that fool people. 'is that a photograph?' the sweetest thing I have ever heard. :)

good luck!

Ian
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By mverta
#221669
It's funny you mention the scope of the project, because that was my first thought. I thought: this would take me months to do right. Just the randomizing of faces/bricks/tiles/gutters, etc. geez... Tora's work, too, especially comes to mind in terms of time spent on details. Love his stuff.

_Mike
By iandavis
#221697
oh, one thing I just noticed... the lighting. It's not very 'outdoorsy'.

In direct sunlight the difference between highlight and shadow is sometimes as great as 8 stops or more... that's aprox. 256 times brighter (?) So shadows should be... well... a lot darker. :) Plus, sunlight does not produce very soft shadows... something to do with it coming from a lightsource 93 million miles away (mostly parallel rays)

Even an overcast day is still produces 5 or 6 stops difference between shadow and highlight. So, that's part of the problem for sure.

cheers.

PS. you can still catch a bad sunburn on a cloudy day... so wear lots of maxwell sunblock. :)
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By DrMerman
#221700
What an awesome thread :) I'll be watching this one closely.
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By lsega77
#221716
Wow! I know I have a ton of work ahead of me but it's funny.... I really want this so its become my pet project.

I've taken all these great crits to heart and have been studying my surroundings here in pittsburgh (plenty of dirty brick everywhere :D ). I'm focusing on the brick first since it's the most prominent material.

I can see where the painting process is going to take time! I rendered out a UVW template of the facades and I'm trying to 'grundge' them up and experimenting with the blend modes in PS (as Mike suggested).

Will post updates as I go.

thanks all!!!!

Luis
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By mverta
#221725
One thing I do, which can work well if you choose the right map, is actually find a map of say, a dirty concrete or metal surface, and use the magic wand, at different tolerances, and just click on the map. A default tolerance of 32 will, on a largely uniform map with dirty areas, delete the bulk of the map, and all you're left with are isolated dirty bits, for easy compositing on the rest of the map. Plus, those isolated bits have the advantage of being separated out already for use in building roughness or bump maps.

_Mike
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By lsega77
#221728
Will definitely try that Mike thanks. I realize though that I have to be specific in the painting though. I noticed in the buildings here in pittsburgh there are some fairly typical ways brick buiildings stain (water stains off of sills - base of the building is dirtier then then most areas - stuff like that).

here's a question though: what is a typical multiplier for an .hdr map? it seems every hdr I load is extremely dark (even when I convert to .mxi) and I have to punch up the numbers.

Luis
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By michaelplogue
#221731
You can also dirty up your materials within Maxwell, just by using weight-mapped layers.

As an example: In the image below, the wall consists of (if I recall correctly) seven different layers. I had a large stucco map that I used as a bump map for all layers. I then had a slightly noisy tan color, and a slightly noisy red layer, that I blended together with a greyscale weight map. I also have five different stain layers, each of different types with their own alpha map that I used as the weight map. By keeping everything separate, I can easily re-use any of my stain maps in any other scene, without having to go back into Photoshop and recomposite an entirely new material.

Image

The same applies to the wood slats on the bench (three different wood textures), the green paint (four layers), the stone pot (three layers), and the cobblestones (three layers). All of the stains and their masks I made using mostly a collection of Dosch textures I bought a while back.
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