Posted: Thu May 05, 2005 6:37 pm
just point the camerapoint into ur knots and lower fstop a lot
Units - meters
F/Stop - 22
Shutter- 10
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MACRO SETTINGS, CLOSE UP & IN FOCUS
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Posted: Thu May 05, 2005 6:39 pm
Posted: Thu May 05, 2005 11:47 pm
yes it's sometimes confusing and i believe smooth already knows how to but he mixed up a bit about low f stop. 
iker gave the right parameters...
if still not enough for you Cedric, why not upsizing your model
iker gave the right parameters...
if still not enough for you Cedric, why not upsizing your model
Posted: Fri May 06, 2005 1:21 am
... and... what was the result of those settings ?
Posted: Fri May 06, 2005 1:38 am
... if you like to post image in forum like Maxwell or Rhinoman, use www.imagecave.com - free and easy.
Re: Macro Closeup Settings
Posted: Fri May 06, 2005 1:41 am
Image uploading does not work in many forums (this one included)Cedric Itor wrote:I can't post the image here, I even tried to post the AVATAR jpg and that didn't work even when I was within the parameters, I don't think it like PHOTOSHOP JPG's.
Just try the setting on your own stuff, or send an email to me at fractionalist@yahoo.com and I'll send you the image. Its around 150 bytes, I think, ...
Use http://www.imageshack.us (or imageCave as Micha says) for both uploading your images and for your avatar.
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Posted: Fri May 06, 2005 2:32 am
Your bounces are too many and it adds a lot of time in your render. Try to keep the bounces between 3 and 10
The f-stop is exotic (why so high?) and forces you to use very high intensity skydome.
What happens is, you most likely need to double check your camera target because it determines the focal length and thus your DOF. (Adjusting the target you should be able to control which part is in focus). Also, if your units and camera-targets are correct then you shouldn't need to go above 20 f-stop (11 would do a lot of the times)
Why did you feel the need to change the film width-height ? (this is no problem, I am just curious)
The f-stop is exotic (why so high?) and forces you to use very high intensity skydome.
What happens is, you most likely need to double check your camera target because it determines the focal length and thus your DOF. (Adjusting the target you should be able to control which part is in focus). Also, if your units and camera-targets are correct then you shouldn't need to go above 20 f-stop (11 would do a lot of the times)
Why did you feel the need to change the film width-height ? (this is no problem, I am just curious)
By "porcelain" you mean shinny/glossy ?I want high contrast, CLEAR, CRISP, like porcelain (texture) rope